This season, not only do the clothes come in a multitude of cuts and shapes, (most notably and brilliantly at Comme des Garçons), the runway itself has taken on many forms, eschewing the traditional ‘T’ shape for complex and challenging permutations. The collections are first and foremost shows, and designers pulled out all the stops: a Welsh men’s choir at Anya Hindmarch, karaoke at Diane Von Furstenberg and Mary J. Blige her very self at Dsquared2.
The greatest seismic shift in the fashion world however was away from the catwalk. The fashion hierarchy has changed – bloggers have become journalists (Susie Bubble at Elle and Dazed & Confused, for example) – and a critical viewpoint has been the greatest victim. Returning from a short hiatus, fashion critic-at-large at New York Magazine Cathy Horyn sums it up perfectly: “They don’t have a critical thought process, they want to be friends and I don’t.” Editor-at-large, Anna Dello Russo at Japan Vogue Japan dazzles Mademoiselle Agnès with her approach to fashion – she never wears the same outfit twice and has a whole apartment solely dedicated to house her vast clothing collection. Keep an eye out too for Mademoiselle Agnès priceless interpretations of the Rick Owens woman, Kanye West Woman and Lily Apple Rose, Vetements Woman!
Screens with It All Starts with Hew (2 mins, Australia, 2015) - featuring the colourful menswear of Melbourne designer Ema Hewitt. Dancer James Conrado brings to life Hew’s latest collection in this quirky and fun short film - one of the Australian finalists in the Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival Film 2016 competition.
Dressed Up for Winter 2016
4 Mar - 12 Mar
This season, with Gaultier absent to concentrate exclusively on his haute couture line, the focus is back on the big houses– Gucci, Dior, Vuitton and Chanel – and how they’ve embraced social media to communicate with their millions of followers.
Karl Lagerfeld continues to surprise and innovate at Chanel, transforming the Grand Palais into Brasserie Gabrielle and drawing inspiration from the wait staff uniforms, in a traffic jam of glorious tweeds.